Exfoliation plays a role in many skincare routines, helping to remove dead skin cells from the surface and improve the appearance and texture of the skin. While we often associate exfoliating with summer skincare, it can be just as important during the colder months too.
The key is understanding how exfoliation works, why our skin needs it and how to find the right balance.
What is a skin cycle?
New skin cells are formed in the deepest layer of our skin (stratum basale) and make their way up to the surface of the skin (epidermis). On average, the skin cycle takes 2-3 weeks between the ages of 18-25, and increases as we grow older.
What happens to the skin cells when they reach the surface?
Once the cells reach the surface, they undergo changes, eventually becoming flattened, dead skin cells known as corneocytes. These form part of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, which acts as a protective barrier against the outside environment. Over time, these surface cells are naturally shed through a process called desquamation.
However, dead skin cells don't always shed evenly. When they accumulate on the surface, skin can appear dull, rough or flaky. Exfoliation helps remove some of these surface cells, revealing a smoother-looking skin surface underneath.
Why is exfoliation important for skin health?
It's important to remember that exfoliation doesn't need to accelerate the skin's natural renewal process to be effective. Its primary purpose is to assist with the removal of cells that are already at the skin's surface.
It can help to:
-
Improve skin texture: Removing accumulated surface cells can leave skin feeling softer and smoother.
-
Reduce surface build-up: Exfoliation can help clear accumulated dead skin cells, particularly around areas prone to roughness.
-
Support your skincare routine: Removing excess surface build-up may help certain skincare ingredients make better contact with the skin, although this doesn't mean that more exfoliation leads to better results.
What happens when you over-exfoliate?
The outermost layer of our skin provides an essential protective function. It helps retain moisture and limits the entry of potential irritants. When we exfoliate too frequently, use excessive pressure or combine multiple strong exfoliating products, we risk removing too much of this protective surface layer. This can disrupt the skin barrier and increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the process through which water naturally escapes from the skin.
Why exfoliation still matters in autumn and winter
Exfoliation is often associated with summer, when we tend to show more skin but our skin continues to renew itself throughout the year.
During autumn and winter, colder outdoor temperatures, lower humidity and indoor heating can contribute to moisture loss, leaving skin feeling drier, tighter and sometimes flaky. This can make areas such as the elbows, knees, legs and face feel particularly rough. Gentle exfoliation can help remove accumulated surface skin cells and improve texture, but it's particularly important to balance exfoliation with nourishing, hydrating skincare that supports the skin barrier.
Face vs body: should we exfoliate differently?
The skin on the face is thinner than the skin on your body and as your face is exposed to more sunlight and environmental pollution, we would recommend using exfoliators that are specific to your face and body to keep the skin barrier protected.
For the face we would recommend ishga Exfoliating Face Mask and for body exfoliation, we would recommend the Hebridean Sea Salt Scrub.
Finding the right balance
For some people, gentle exfoliation once a week may be sufficient. Others may tolerate it more frequently, while very dry, sensitive or compromised skin may benefit from avoiding exfoliation altogether until the barrier has recovered.
The skin is already equipped with its own natural renewal process, and our role is to support it rather than interfere with it. Whether you're exfoliating your face or body, during summer or winter, the same principle applies: gentle, considered skincare is often more beneficial than an intensive approach.
