When it comes to healthy skin, hydration often takes centre stage. But there's another essential component working behind the scenes to keep our skin soft, smooth and protected: lipids.
These naturally occurring fat-like substances play a vital role in maintaining the skin's protective barrier, helping to prevent moisture loss and protect against external irritants. But what exactly are lipids, and why are they so important for skin health?
What are lipids in skincare?
Lipids are a group of naturally occurring fat-like molecules found throughout the body, including in our skin. They perform several important functions, from supporting cell structure to helping maintain a healthy skin barrier. The outermost layer of our skin, known as the stratum corneum, is made up of skin cells surrounded by a mixture of lipids.
An easy way to understand this is to imagine a brick wall. The skin cells act as the bricks, while the lipids form the mortar that holds everything together. This protective structure helps keep moisture within the skin while limiting the entry of external irritants.
The three essential lipids in your skin
Three main types of lipids work together to maintain the skin's natural protective barrier:
1. Ceramides
Ceramides make up approximately 50% of the lipids found between cells in the outermost skin layer. They play a particularly important role in maintaining the structure of the skin barrier and preventing excessive moisture loss.
2. Cholesterol
Although often associated with diet and heart health, cholesterol is also an essential component of healthy skin. It works alongside ceramides and fatty acids to maintain the flexibility, organisation and integrity of the skin barrier.
3. Free Fatty Acids
Fatty acids are important components of the skin's natural lipid structure. They help maintain the skin barrier and contribute to the slightly acidic environment of the skin's surface, which supports its protective functions.
What happens when your skin's lipid barrier is disrupted?
When the skin's natural lipid balance is disrupted, its protective barrier may become less effective.
Signs of a weakened skin barrier may include:
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Dryness, flakiness or rough texture
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A feeling of tightness or discomfort
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Increased sensitivity to skincare products
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Redness or irritation
Several factors can affect the skin barrier, including cold weather, low humidity, harsh cleansing products, excessive exfoliation and certain skin conditions. As we age, changes in the skin's lipid composition and production can also contribute to increased dryness.
How can skincare help support healthy skin lipids?
While our skin naturally produces its own lipids, skincare products containing emollient ingredients can help support the skin's protective barrier.
Plant-derived oils and butters are particularly interesting because they contain different combinations of fatty acids and other lipid compounds.
For example:
- Thistle oil is rich in linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid involved in maintaining healthy skin barrier function.
- Sweet almond oil contains oleic and linoleic acids, which contribute to its skin-softening and conditioning properties.
- Jojoba oil is composed primarily of wax esters, which are structurally similar to some of the lipids naturally found in the skin's sebum (oil). These help soften the skin and reduce moisture loss.
- Shea butter contains fatty acids, including stearic and oleic acids, which provide nourishing emollient properties.
These ingredients can be found across the ishga skincare range, in products such as our Nourishing Face Oil, Anti-oxidant Marine Cream and Hydra+ Marine Cream.
Lipids vs hydration: What's the difference?
Although closely connected, lipids and hydration have different roles in maintaining healthy skin.
Hydration refers to the water content within the skin. Humectant ingredients, such as glycerine and hyaluronic acid, help attract and retain water.
Lipids, on the other hand, contribute to the skin's protective barrier, helping to limit the amount of water that escapes.
Supporting your skin's natural barrier
Maintaining a healthy skin barrier doesn't need to involve a complicated skincare routine. Gentle cleansing, regular moisturising and avoiding excessive exfoliation can all help preserve the skin's natural protective functions.
Choosing moisturisers containing a combination of hydrating ingredients and nourishing emollients can also help keep skin feeling comfortable, particularly during the colder months when dryness is more common.
